TEK RM5110

[Zenith]

A magnificent result. It makes me feel guilty about my various delayed projects needing cap replacement.

[MED6753]

Finally got the opportunity to get the upgraded PSU installed. Powered up with no issues and voltages spot on.




I'm going to order the JAMMA cable as recommended by Paul and modify it for use as an extender so I can calibrate the plug-in's. But for now this project is complete. Moving on to the hp 211A.

[25 CPS]

That really does look good in the pictures. Did the CRT's display improve once the upgraded rebuilt power supply? If the CRT's worn out, it's got to be something that has to be seen in person because it looks great in the photos.

[MED6753]

Surprisingly the CRT display did improve slightly after the re-cap and I'm not quite sure why. The PSU voltages and ripple were well within spec prior to any work being done.

[MED6753]

So I got the JAMMA cable for use as an extender. I realize I have to notch the male connector and put a key in the female connector. But there's talk that I have to modify the wiring too? What specifically has to be done?

[Cubdriver]

I haven't used the one I got yet, so I haven't gone through it, but the main thing I'm aware of is that you need to slice the siamesed pads on the end of the male connector where the pairs of black and red wires attach to make the connections separate, and the other thing I'd do is check the connections between like colored wires - they are paired on opposite sides of the connector eg. pink front/pink back, yellow front/yellow back, etc. If they bundle them AFTER they make the connections (likely, I'd think), then they're probably fine, but better safe than sorry - make sure side one pink on the board ties to side one pink on the connector, side 2 to side 2, etc - make sure none of them are crossed front to back.

-Pat

Edit to add - I think you'll likely be ok re front to back crossing - I just took the one I had and checked and the connections match without front-to-back crossover. Probably a good idea to check the red & black power wires once the siamesed pads have been split.

[MED6753]

This is the interface in the 5110 (female connector). At first glance it appears that the JAMMA is going to need considerable rework to avoid magic smoke. What I need to determine right away is the interface on the 5110 numbered from the bottom up or top down? And then which is left side vs right side? That should be easy. Just find the +200V on pin 1 and the -38V on pin 1. But if you notice several pins are tied together. Is that on the interface itself or somewhere else. Resistance checks should determine that. And it doesn't use all 64 pins so unused cables will be removed. And of course have to install a key way.

[Cubdriver]

As long as you split the siamesed pads, why do you think the JAMMA cable would need extensive rework? As long as all the connections are 1:1, it should effectively be invisible to the plug in. And why remove the unused cables? If they're no connects, they won't hurt anything, and the TM-500 equipment uses the same connectors so it could potentially be used for that, too (not sure off the top of my head if you have any, but even if not you might eventually...).

-Pat

[MED6753]

What are these siamesed pads that you are referring to? I don't see any connected together although I have not verified that with an ohm meter. Or are some cables swapped side to side male to female?



Yes, I do have a TM series. This TM503. I was able to troubleshoot each plug-in in the cabinet but it would be nice to have an extender. So I'll leave the unused cables in place.

[Cubdriver]

Look closely at the ones near the end with the red and black wires - they're solid on the male edge connector - you'll need to slice the fingers/pads lengthwise to separate them. Those pads are siamesed on both sides on mine.



I ohmed out a bunch of the wiring on mine and they appear to correspond 1:1 as a pure extension with no side to side swapping, but I'd suggest running a quick test with an ohmmeter to verify. I can do a more thorough check later tonight and let you know what I find on mine.

-Pat

[MED6753]

Pat, you are correct. Just looked at mine and it's the same. Yes, they need to be separated.

[MED6753]

Pins 1 and 2 no longer tied together. Same with Pins 3 and 4. A Dremel with a mini rasp bit was the tool to separate the traces. I also verified that the cabling does not swap side to side.



Still to do:

Verify orientation of the 5110 interface. Although I suppose it doesn't really matter because all the cables are now isolated. But I still want to check.
Notch the male end for the key way.
Install a key in the female end.
Smoke test.