That is curious, i am curious.
Any URLs/summary?
Intuitively that's a reasonable thing to assume as a weak point, but a lot of effort was put into eliminating it. For instance with valves. With B9A and B7G valves (the smallish all glass valves used from the late 40s in TVs and made by the million) a lot of R&D went into choosing an alloy for the pins which matched the expansion of the glass and caused no other problems. Valves went from room temperature to too hot to touch in less than a minute. Loss of vacuum because of the pin to glass seal breaking down was nearly unheard of.
Is the temperature that critical? A quick and dirty test would use a desoldering hot air gun (mine goes down to 100C), or even a hair dryer.synx508 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 29, 2026 10:40 pm I dropped the dodgy 1N4148s into my "scrap" bin but I could retrieve them. I decided it'd be quite a lot of work to build a test jig to get them to the right temperature to replicate the conditions inside the 3314A. I might fish them out if I decide that would actually be fun.
That's traditionalMy component-seeking abilities worked in reverse with these SRAMs, I'm 90% sure that I threw several of them out last year because why would I want those ancient things?
A good friend and mentor, a Dr of EE Prof shared he had given his students the task to find the current limits of IN4148......20A for 1us !!!!synx508 wrote: ↑Thu Jan 29, 2026 10:40 pm I dropped the dodgy 1N4148s into my "scrap" bin but I could retrieve them. I decided it'd be quite a lot of work to build a test jig to get them to the right temperature to replicate the conditions inside the 3314A. I might fish them out if I decide that would actually be fun.
I've got a 6264-12 in there at the moment, it's in a socket, soldered to some stripboard, with wires soldered between the stripboard and the top side of two more µPD444C sized sockets, which are then in sockets that I put in place of the 444s, which I snipped out as the leads were folded over. I could probably salvage the old chips but it'd be a lot of work.
I'd be very interested to try measuring if it's just one or two. I can improvise a computer-controlled curve tracer and put the DUT in a temperature cabinet. Curve tracing is usually quite good for spotting intermittents and popcorn noise.
I found two of them by sorting through the scrap bin, but I'm not sure if I've recovered the one with the interesting fault.
This applies to the 3325B, too, in terms of interconnects. I've put my 3325B into storage because the interconnects were driving me round the twist. I don't have the same problem with the 3325A, which uses slightly different parts.
That's a shame. But I'd need to be pretty confident that I had the guilty party. My temperature cabinet started life as a £20 tabletop oven from Aldi before being rewired and having its bimetal strip replaced by an industrial PID controller and a fan added within the chamber. But it's manual control from the front only so temperature tests have to be attended.
You'll find out which one it is when you use it to repair something...synx508 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 30, 2026 11:58 amI found two of them by sorting through the scrap bin, but I'm not sure if I've recovered the one with the interesting fault.
These interconnects have failed in many different ways. The original pins are pitted and have reacted with something over the years, they're almost slate coloured and crumbly looking. The insulation displacement arrangement looks as if it was never punched down evenly. The cable itself is single core, or at least tinned to the point that it may as well be and it's very brittle. The pins were never really long enough, they only just reach the contacts inside the housing. I added longer pins and the contacts visually perform much better but the springiness of these contacts could be better. I am hoping to find some ready assembled cables so I don't have to go fake-molex-crimp crazy making my own.Zenith wrote: ↑Fri Jan 30, 2026 1:07 pm To be fair, interconnects and edge connectors are a likely trouble spot with any 30 plus year old kit. There are tarnishing problems and cables become stiff with time. I've had a couple of problems fixed by removing boards and re-seating them. Connectors will have a specified number of insertions, maybe 50, which no one takes any notice of, and in most cases is never approached. In this case it sounds as if previous owners did a lot of whipping out of boards to locate the problem. There's always a temptation to grab the cable and yank it out rather than pulling the connector body, especially when you are getting fed up.
Indeed, that's why they were straight into the scrap bin. I bought a big box of many, many thousands of Philips 1N4148, so I don't mind throwing out any that might be suspect.AVGresponding wrote: ↑Fri Jan 30, 2026 2:22 pm You'll find out which one it is when you use it to repair something...
Yes indeed. I bought 200 for a quid from the slightly dodgy, but now sadly defunct, N.R Bardwell about 30 years ago. They said they were 1N4148, I recall they are marked PH256. They've never given any problems where a 1N4148 was needed. I still have half of them left. I'm sure I have also bought the odd packet of 100 1N4148s at rallies for a quid or 50p. IMHO, you'd have to be very hard up to reuse a pulled 1N4148.synx508 wrote: ↑Fri Jan 30, 2026 6:28 pmIndeed, that's why they were straight into the scrap bin. I bought a big box of many, many thousands of Philips 1N4148, so I don't mind throwing out any that might be suspect.AVGresponding wrote: ↑Fri Jan 30, 2026 2:22 pm You'll find out which one it is when you use it to repair something...